There is no guaranteed way to remove the musty smell from old books, but there is a strategy that may be successful. This musty smell is most often noted in books that have been moldy or mildewed in the past.

The first step is to create an enclosed chamber. This is most easily done by using two garbage cans, one large(with a lid) and one small. The object to be "deodorized" should be placed in the smaller can, which is then placed inside the larger can. Some type odor-absorbing material should then be placed in the bottom of the larger can. Odor-absorbing materials to try include baking soda, charcoal briquettes(without lighter fluid), or kitty litter. The lid should then be placed on the larger can, and the chamber should then be left for some time. You will need to monitor periodically to see how long the materials need to be left inside the chamber.

A second option is the use of paper containing Zeolite molecular traps. Known as MicroChamber products, these papers have proven very effective at removing odors. We suggest placing a sheet of the fine, 100% cotton interleaving tissue between the front board and the endpaper, every 50 pages throughout the volume, and again between the back board and the endpaper. Close the book and set it aside until the odor is reduced.

Unfortunately, there may be little you can do. Most yearbooks are made with glossy coated paper; the same paper used for art books. If this paper becomes wet and then begins to dry, the coating on one page sticks to the coating on the next. Once this occurs, it cannot be reversed. Freezing within 6 hours, followed by vacuum freeze drying, can be successful in saving this type of material. The vacuum freeze drying must be carried out by a commercial service such as AFD.

In some cases, the pages are only partially stuck together. If this is the case, you can try to gently separate the pages with a microspatula. There will be some loss in the areas where the pages were stuck, but some of the information may be salvageable. Another strategy is to find another copy of the yearbook. If you cannot purchase or otherwise acquire one, you might borrow a copy and have a good-quality xerox made. This could then be bound by a library binder.

Family photographs and papers should be protected from excessive heat, humidity and pollution. attics and basements are the worst storage areas because of the extreme heat and humidities normally found in those areas. It is better to store family collections on the upper shelf of a closet in the main part of the house. photographs and papers should be protected from light. Color photographs are especially vunerable to deteriation. Exhibited items should not be placed in the direct sun or in bright areas, and it is best not to exhibit any particular photgraph or document permanently.

Important materials that will be kept over the long term should be stored in archival-quality enclosures. For papers, this usually means low-lignin buffered folders and boxes. For photographs, stable plastic enclosures are usually the best. Conservation suppliers offer both plastic pages with pockets for photos and plastic "corners" that can be used to mount photos on neutral pH album pages. Never use polyvinyl chloride(PVC) plastic pages or "magnetic" photo albums(these actually hold the photos in place with adhesive that is damaging over the long term). Video tapes are also vulnerable; they have a limited life expectancy, and should be copied onto new tape every 10-15 years.

The stability of laser-printed documents depends largely on the quality of paper used and the degree to which the toner adheres to the paper. Archival-quality paper should be used; in practice, this means a paper that meets the American National Standards Institute(ANSI) standard for permanent paper. Among other things, this standard requires the paper to have a pH of 7.5 or above and a calcium carbonate content of over 2%(calcium carbonate is a buffering material that raises the pH of the paper and fights against future acid deteriation). Many papers on the market today do meet the standard. In addition, a toner with a stable pigment such as carbon black should be used, and the printer should be regularly maintained and serviced.

You may be seeing booklice(also known as psocids) or silverfish. Booklice are extremely small, about 1-2mm long. Silverfish are larger(up to 12.5mm) and over time can eat holes in paper. The presence of silverfish and psocids often indicates a humidity problem in a storage area. If booklice or silverfish are noted, the first step should be to inspect collections to determine whether the problem is widespread or isolated. If only a few insects are seen, try to address the problem by reducing the humidity in the space and isolating and vacuuming the affected materials. If these measures are not successful, or if the problem is widespread, additional measures may be necessary. Non-chemical measures are preferable to chemical treatments. It is best to contact a preservation professional, such as AFD, to discuss appropriate options.

Many libraries have old built-in wooden shelving that is used for the storage of historical collections. From the perspective of preservation, it is best to store collections on metal shelving, since wood shelving can give off damaging pollutants. If wood shelving must be used, there are several steps that can be taken to minimize damage to collections. None of these actions will provide complete protection, however. All wood shelves should be sealed; currently the best choice for sealant is a moisture-borne polyurethane. Oil-based paints and stains should be avoided. Any sealant should be tested for acceptability before use. In addition, shelves can be lined with glass, Plexiglas, or an inert metallic laminate material to prevent materials from coming into direct contact with the wood. If collections must be stored in closed wooden cabinets or shelving, these should be aired out several times per year to minimize buildup of damaging fumes inside.

The use of leather dressings(neatsfoot oil, lanolin, etc.) was widespread in libraries for many years, but the conservation community now recommends that it be avoided in most cases. Research and experience have shown that leather dressings have some undesirable side effects(i.e., discoloration, staining, and stickiness; wicking of oil into adjoining materials; and increased danger of mold growth on treated materials; among other problems) and that their preservative effects are less than was once thought. In some cases(but not all), leather dressing will provide increased flexiblity, but in many libraries, archives, and museum settings, such flexiblity is no longer necessary because the book is only rarely used. Leather dressing can be appropriate for some objects, but advice should be sought from a conservator before using it.